Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
